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Waxing your vehicle properly!
Part 1 |
properly waxed vehicle is both much easier to clean (before
you wash it see Part
1 first!) and it is protected from the elements.
It also stays cleaner longer as all the rain and spray and muck just runs off
Paint is rough and porous under the microscope. Yes even your
new shiny paint! You want to keep a layer of wax on to fill
these little pits and craters so that the thing wont rust
and also so it is smooth to stop dirt sticking to it! It looks better too of
thoroughly clean waxed and shiny car is easy to wash with just
plain water. Nothing sticks. Not even the rain. It can be washed and dried and
shine like new in a matter of a few minutes.
look at this picture below (or one of the bigger versions of
it) you will see that the paint has some droplets on it as
its raining. But its not really wet!
The wax keeps the
paint dry and the surface tension holds the water into a
drop as it runs or is blown off the car.
Now if it
looks like this picture below when it rains then its already waxed well
and can be washed
with just plain rainwater and as little an amount of "wash and wax" detergent as
possible very easily and will blow dry clean and very shiny. No need to re wax
Click image for a larger view!
here for an even bigger image.
The secret is to NOT wash off the wax with
That's why we use only just enough to allow just a few visible bubbles only.
Enough to clean without scratching and to break the surface tension. The
less you can get away with the better it will dry.
you have already washed and dried your car or van as
per the previous page - part one - then you are
ready to wax it again only if the wax has been
washed off. Hose pipes, car washes, heavy rain all
takes its toll on your cars wax coating.
And here is a little known fact. The
easier and better the wax can be polished off the
easier it is for the elements to do it! Waxes that
are very easy to apply and can be polished off
really easily do not last as long as harder waxes.
Use whatever wax you prefer but I personally use
Autoglym products. They seem to be about the best at
a sensible price. And if you wash your vehicle only
in plain rainwater it lasts about 6 months - saving me a lot of work, and the vehicles
paint a lot of
fine scratches caused by you applying and removing the polish. But remember.
Most waxes look great when first applied. But the ones that are hard to remove,
the ones that are more solid once the solvent has evaporated away will also last
longer and still look good after a long time.
To polish your
do the following, it will result in less
overall effort and a faster better finish and will best protect your
paint finish from all those swirl marks and deterioration than
Don't do it if
it does not need it! Every time you touch your
paint with a rag or polishing cloth you DO produce many
fine scratches. If you follow the washing procedure in
the previous page then the wax coating should still be
intact and just drying it as described will leave it as
good as can be!
your paint looks like this after a rain then you should
be shot for neglect!
This looks like it has seen no wax for years. It
would need careful washing, t-cutting or compounding and
then re-waxing to try to recover its original shine. If its
not rusty and flaking already...
Click image for a larger view!
here for an even bigger image.
it looks like this image after a rain then you can get
away with just waxing it properly again! It shows slight
signs of some wax remaining.
Both of these vehicles were sat outside of my house
while I was photographing my own black Chrysler.
Click image for a larger view! Or
here for an even bigger image
wax your car on a cool very dry day.
Preferably just after washing and drying as per part
one. At dusk, or early morning. High temperatures (worse
on dark cars as they get hotter in the sun) mean that
the wax is runny and liquid even though it appears to be
dry. And it smears and leaves greasy looking
marks... Its MUCH easier and faster and gets
better results when cool with every wax I ever tried.
Including the ones that claim to be ok in sun...
towels (ordinary cheap hand towels) bought
specifically for this purpose straight from the washing
machine. I buy cheap ones from eBay as "dog towels" they
are brown or black which is good. They leave dark
coloured fibres that is harder to see!
that the cloth (small towel) you use to apply the wax is
very slightly damp. NOT wet! Damp and only slightly!
It removes any marks that are left over from washing and
drying as you wax. Keep turning the towel because
if there's a bit of dust or grit collected as you wax
you don't want to sandpaper your car with it! This is
another good reason NOT to wax too often and to wash it
in rainwater with very little detergent!
glass including the windscreen. Many people will
advise you against this but I have done it for years and
they stay clean without wipers even in a massive
downpour! And they shine and stay cleaner longer. No need for wipers!
panel at a time making sure you do not miss any.
DON'T get it in or on any plastic, rubber parts because
once its there you are buggered! You cannot get it off
and it goes white in time or after being wet. BE CAREFUL
WHERE YOU PUT IT! Painted areas, wheels, (wheels are painted)
and glass. Do the accessible edges of doors
etc too, Do the lights and indicators.
Leave it at
least as long as you can! The longer the better.
If its cool it takes a long time for the solvents
(normally petroleum based) to leave. But cool is better as you have a harder wax
that stays in these pores and crevasses in the paint as you polish. If you take the wax
off too quickly and it isn't completely dry then the wax
sat in all the microscopic pores and pits may be removed
too and you wasted your time! You want it to leave a
hard shell of hard to remove wax. This is why those
"fast waxes" are always pretty crap. If they wipe off
really easily then they are too soft! Old fashioned
style wax that is hard work always lasts the longest but
then it IS hard work!
removing the white dry wax from the vehicle use your
freshly washed and dried towels turn and shake out
regularly and do one panel at a time. Start at the top!
Pay special attention to the edges and body lines and
grooves make sure you got ALL of the wax before shaking
the cloth and move to the next panel.
and clean and polish where all the doors close! On
mine this is as polished and clean as the rest of the
should have been washed and cleaned in part one so these
also need waxing. They are painted and lacquered just
like the rest of the car and clean waxed wheels don't
collect brake dust as badly and it washes straight off
with plain rain water!
By now the
outside should look like brand new or in most cases
a bit better. But you still need to do your tyres! I use
a spray tyre foam (there are many on the shelves) and
allow it to soak. It protects the rubber from drying out
too so helps protect the sidewalls as well as making the
tyres look new.
If you drop a towel or rag then throw it away or at least wash
it thoroughly before you touch your paint with it. If you don't your car will
have those horrible swirl marks just like your neighbours...
Part 1 |
Part 1 |